很久很久以前，有一个小渔村

很久很久以前，有一个小渔村

🌅 Long, Long Ago, There Was a Small Fishing Village

> 本章核心问题 / Chapter Question > 深圳在变成今天这座超级大都市之前，到底长什么样？ > *What did Shenzhen look like before it became the super city it is today?*

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一、从一封"奇怪的信"开始

It All Started with a Strange Letter

想象一下：今天，你打开家里的冰箱，可以吃到来自新西兰的牛奶、智利的车厘子、北海道的雪蟹；你打开手机，可以和在美国的表哥视频通话；你坐上地铁，半小时就能从城市的这一头跑到那一头。可是，如果你把时钟往回拨 40 多年——拨到 1980 年以前——你会发现，今天我们习以为常的一切，在那时的深圳，根本不存在。

*Imagine this: today, you can open your fridge and find milk from New Zealand, cherries from Chile, and snow crabs from Hokkaido. You can open your phone and video-call your cousin in America. You can take the subway and zoom from one end of the city to the other in half an hour. But if you turn the clock back more than 40 years—back to before 1980—you'll find that almost nothing we take for granted today existed in Shenzhen back then.*

那时候的深圳，没有高楼大厦，没有高速公路，没有星巴克，也没有腾讯和华为。那时候的深圳，只有一个小小的镇，镇上只有两条像样的街道，几间砖瓦房，一片稻田，几座小山丘，和一个破旧的小码头。那时候的深圳，人口大约只有 3 万人——比现在深圳一个普通中学的学生总数还要少。

*Back then, Shenzhen had no skyscrapers, no highways, no Starbucks, no Tencent, no Huawei. Shenzhen was just a small town with two proper streets, a few brick-and-tile houses, some rice fields, a few hills, and a small, worn-down dock. The population was only about 30,000—fewer than the total number of students in an average middle school in Shenzhen today.*

怎么知道那时候的深圳长什么样呢？

*How do we know what Shenzhen looked like back then?*

我们有三个好帮手：

*We have three great helpers:*

1. 老照片 / Old Photographs：摄影师用相机把当时的样子拍了下来。 *Photographers captured the scenes with their cameras.* 2. 老人的回忆 / Elders' Memories：爷爷奶奶、姥姥姥爷那一辈人会给我们讲故事。 *Grandparents and great-grandparents can tell us their stories.* 3. 老地图 / Old Maps：当年的地图虽然粗糙，但是很真实。 *The maps from those days may be rough, but they are truthful.*

在这一章里，我们会用上这三种方法，去认识 40 多年前的深圳。我们会认识一个叫阿珍的小女孩，她不是真实存在的人，但是她的故事，是根据许多深圳老居民的回忆拼起来的。让我们跟着阿珍，回到 1978 年的深圳，看看她眼中的家乡。

*In this chapter, we will use all three methods to get to know Shenzhen from over 40 years ago. We will meet a little girl named Ah Zhen (阿珍). She is not a real person, but her story is pieced together from the memories of many old Shenzhen residents. Let's follow Ah Zhen back to Shenzhen in 1978 and see her hometown through her eyes.*

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二、阿珍是谁？

Who Is Ah Zhen?

阿珍 / Ah Zhen 是我们这一章的小导游。她那年 8 岁，住在深圳镇解放路（今天这条街还在，就在东门附近）的一间矮矮的瓦片房里。她家里有爸爸、妈妈、一个哥哥、一个姐姐，加上奶奶，一共六口人。

*Ah Zhen is our little guide for this chapter. She is 8 years old and lives in a low tile-roofed house on Jiefang Road in Shenzhen town (this street still exists today, near Dongmen). Her family includes her father, mother, an older brother, an older sister, and her grandmother—six people in total.*

阿珍的爸爸是个渔民，每天凌晨 3 点就要起床，趁涨潮之前把渔船推到海里，然后划到香港那边的海域去打鱼。阿珍的妈妈在家里养鸡、种菜、晒盐，还要照顾四个孩子。哥哥比阿珍大 3 岁，已经会帮爸爸补网了。姐姐比阿珍大 5 岁，在镇上的小学念五年级。阿珍自己呢，刚上一年级。

*Ah Zhen's father is a fisherman. He has to wake up at 3 a.m. every day, push his boat into the sea before the tide rises, and then row over to the waters near Hong Kong to catch fish. Ah Zhen's mother raises chickens, grows vegetables, makes salt by the sea, and takes care of the four children. Her brother, three years older, already knows how to help mend fishing nets. Her sister, five years older, is in fifth grade at the town's primary school. Ah Zhen herself has just started first grade.*

阿珍不知道什么是"大城市"，因为她从来没去过比深圳镇更大的地方。她也不知道什么是"改革开放"，因为这个词语要等到 1978 年 12 月之后，才慢慢出现在大人们的谈话里。在阿珍的世界里，最大的"远方"就是香港——可是，她从来没有去过，因为那个时候，从深圳去香港，并不是一件容易的事。

*Ah Zhen doesn't know what a "big city" is, because she has never been to a place bigger than Shenzhen town. She doesn't know what "Reform and Opening Up" means, because that phrase only began to appear in adults' conversations after December 1978. In Ah Zhen's world, the farthest "faraway place" is Hong Kong—but she has never been there, because in those days, going from Shenzhen to Hong Kong was not an easy thing.*

> 💡 小知识 / Did You Know? > 1978 年 12 月，中国共产党召开了一次非常重要的会议，叫"十一届三中全会"。这次会议决定：中国要"改革开放"——意思是，对内搞活经济，对外面向世界。深圳，是这场大变革的第一站。 > *In December 1978, the Communist Party of China held a very important meeting called the "Third Plenary Session of the 11th Central Committee." At this meeting, China decided to pursue "Reform and Opening Up"—which meant to invigorate the economy internally and open up to the world externally. Shenzhen was the first stop of this great transformation.*

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三、深圳的"童年地图"

The Childhood Map of Shenzhen

要了解一个小渔村，最好的办法就是先看它的地图。让我们把镜头升高，从空中往下看 1979 年的深圳镇。

*To understand a small fishing village, the best way is to first look at its map. Let's lift the camera high and look down at Shenzhen town in 1979.*

```mermaid flowchart TD A[深圳镇 Shenzhen Town<br/>人口约 3 万] --> B[北边：宝安县<br/>North: Bao'an County] A --> C[南边：深圳河<br/>South: Shenzhen River] C --> D[对岸：香港<br/>Across: Hong Kong] A --> E[东边：大鹏湾<br/>East: Dapeng Bay] A --> F[西边：珠江口<br/>West: Pearl River Estuary] A --> G[镇中心：东门 / 老街<br/>Town Center: Dongmen / Old Street] A --> H[西南：蛇口 / 渔村<br/>Southwest: Shekou / Fishing Village] A --> I[东南：沙头角 / 中英街<br/>Southeast: Shatoujiao / Chung Ying Street] ```

1. 地理位置：背靠南山，面朝大海

Geographic Location: Backed by Nanshan, Facing the Sea

阿珍的家乡，在地图上看起来像一个被大海"抱"着的小婴儿。这个小婴儿的北边是连绵的低矮山丘，今天我们叫它塘朗山和羊台山；南边是一条浅浅的河，叫深圳河，河对面就是英国统治下的香港；东边是大鹏湾，那里出产一种好吃的鱼叫"鲍鱼"；西边是珠江口，中国大陆的第三大河流——珠江——就是从这里汇入大海的。

*Ah Zhen's hometown looks like a baby "hugged" by the sea on a map. To the north are rolling low hills, which we today call Tanglang Mountain and Yangtai Mountain; to the south is a shallow river called the Shenzhen River, and across the river is Hong Kong, then under British rule; to the east is Dapeng Bay, famous for its delicious abalone; to the west is the Pearl River Estuary, where the Pearl River—China's third-largest river—flows into the sea.*

你可以想象一下：阿珍站在家门口，往南看，就能看到深圳河对岸的香港——那里有成片的骑楼、有红磡火车站、有维多利亚港。往北看，是绿油油的山，山上有野兔、有松鼠、有时会跑来一只野猪。往东走 30 分钟，是一片金黄色的沙滩。往西走 30 分钟，是一片红树林——红树林是一种长在海边的树，根会从水里伸出来，像章鱼的脚一样。

*Imagine this: Ah Zhen stands at her doorstep, looking south, and she can see Hong Kong across the Shenzhen River—where there are rows of arcade buildings, the Hung Hom railway station, and Victoria Harbour. Looking north, she sees green mountains with wild rabbits, squirrels, and sometimes wild boars. Walking 30 minutes east, she reaches a golden sandy beach. Walking 30 minutes west, she reaches a mangrove forest—mangroves are trees that grow by the sea, with roots sticking out of the water like octopus legs.*

2. 镇中心：只有两条街

Town Center: Only Two Streets

整个深圳镇，最热闹的地方就是东门和老街这一带。但是你别被"热闹"这个词骗了——这里的"热闹"，放到今天，可能还比不上你家楼下便利店的周末早晨。

*The busiest area in all of Shenzhen town was around Dongmen and Old Street. But don't be fooled by the word "busiest"—if you compared that "busiest" with a busy Saturday morning in the convenience store downstairs from your home today, it would lose.*

那时候的东门，只有两条像样的街道：一条叫解放路，一条叫人民路。两条街加起来不到 1 公里长，走快点 10 分钟就能走完。街上没有电梯、没有自动扶梯、没有红绿灯（因为车太少，不需要红绿灯），最高的一栋楼只有 5 层。

*Back then, Dongmen had only two proper streets: one called Jiefang Road and one called Renmin Road. Together they were less than 1 kilometer long—you could walk from one end to the other in 10 minutes if you walked fast. There were no elevators, no escalators, no traffic lights (because there were too few cars to need them), and the tallest building was only 5 stories high.*

> 🗺️ 小地图练习 / Map Practice > 如果你有一张纸，请你试着画出 1979 年深圳镇的简略地图。地图上要包含： > *If you have a piece of paper, try drawing a simplified map of Shenzhen town in 1979. Your map should include:* > > - 北边的山 / Mountains to the north > - 南边的深圳河 / Shenzhen River to the south > - 解放路和人民路 / Jiefang Road and Renmin Road > - 一个写着"码头"的小三角 / A small triangle labeled "Dock" > - 阿珍家的位置（自己决定画在哪里）/ The location of Ah Zhen's home (you decide where to draw it) > > 这就是一张"40 年前的深圳地图"。画完之后，把它和今天深圳的地图比一比，你会发现：今天的深圳，比这张小地图大了1000 多倍！ > *