Chapter 1: Step Into a Song Dynasty City: What Did It Look Like 1,000 Years Ago?
The thud of the iron-studded wooden gate slamming shut behind you makes you jump. You clutch the three copper coins in your pocket—your entire New Year’s laiqian (red envelope money from relatives, saved up for six whole months)—and press your face to the gap between the gate’s thick planks. On the other side, the Northern Song capital Bianjing (modern-day Kaifeng) hums to life, loud enough to drown out the chirping of the sparrows nesting in the city wall’s stone crevices.
<!-- Digital Edition: Time Traveler Tip! If you visit Bianjing in 1100 CE, bring a reusable bamboo basket to carry your snacks—plastic bags won’t be invented for another 900 years! Tap here to see a 3D model of a Song Dynasty travel pass (guanpiao) you’d need to show the gate guards to enter the city. -->
The iron gate creaks open, and the first thing that hits you is the smell: sweet roasted chestnuts toasted over open fires, sour plum juice sweating in ceramic jars, the muddy, fishy tang of the Bian River cutting through the city, and a faint hint of jasmine from the tea stalls set up just inside the gate. The sound is louder than your school playground at recess: donkeys braying under the weight of cargo baskets, vendors shouting “Fresh steamed buns! Pork and vegetable filling!”, kids laughing as they chase a kite shaped like a red phoenix, and the clop of horse hooves on flat, packed stone paving. There are no cars, no honking, no electric hum—just the chaotic, happy noise of a million people going about their day.
You step through the gate and stare up at the city walls. They’re 12 meters tall, taller than the 4-story apartment building your aunt lives in downtown, and so thick that three men on horseback could ride side by side along the top without bumping into each other. Every 100 meters or so, a square watchtower juts out from the wall, where guards in bright red uniforms and feathered hats keep an eye out for fires or invading armies. If you squint, you can see the glint of golden roof tiles from the imperial palace peeking over the sea of grey tiled rooftops in the distance. Only the emperor, his family, and government workers are allowed inside the palace walls, but even from the street, you can tell it’s the fanciest building in the whole world.
The main street in front of you, called the Imperial Avenue, is so wide you could line up 10 basketball courts side by side and still have room left over for three elephant processions to walk through at once (you saw elephants at the traveling circus that came to your village last year, so you know exactly how big that is). Half the street is packed with people walking, carrying baskets, or leading donkeys loaded with cargo. The other half is filled with wooden stalls: some sell silk ribbons in every color of the rainbow, others sell iron pots, wooden toys, or baskets woven from river reeds. Vendors carry poles across their shoulders with hanging baskets of snacks, and they wave at kids as they walk past, offering free samples of candied hawthorn if you smile and say hello.
You tuck your three copper coins deeper in your pocket and start walking down the avenue. After 10 minutes, you see a group of kids about your age playing cuju, an ancient game almost exactly like soccer, where you kick a leather ball stuffed with feathers through a bamboo hoop tied to a tree. One kid kicks the ball too hard, and it flies straight into a stall stacked high with steamed buns. The round-faced vendor laughs, picks a bun out of the top of the stack, and hands it to the kid. No one gets in trouble—everyone in Bianjing knows that cuju balls have a habit of flying into random places.
Another 10 minutes of walking brings you to the East Market, the biggest shopping area in the entire city. It’s split into different streets, each selling only one type of thing, so you never have to wander around looking for what you want. The Silk Street has bolts of blue, red, and gold silk hanging from stall awnings, so bright and soft you want to touch every single one. The Porcelain Street has teacups painted with flying dragons, and tiny figurines of dancers that spin when you blow on them. The Snack Street is your favorite: vendors sell tanghulu (candied hawthorn on a stick, your absolute favorite treat), fried rice cakes sprinkled with sugar, and iced plum juice so cold it makes your teeth hurt. The emperors had special ice cellars dug under the palace to store ice from frozen lakes in the winter, and they sold the extra ice to vendors in the summer, so even regular kids like you could buy cold drinks when the weather was hot.
You spend 20 minutes staring at the Toy Street, where vendors sell wooden swords you can use to play hero, spinning tops that spin for almost a minute if you wind them up right, and kites shaped like swallows, dragons, and even the phoenix you saw flying earlier. You have exactly three copper coins: one will buy you a tanghulu, one will buy you a grilled fish at the docks later, and one is for a kite if you find a cheap one. You spot a small paper kite painted with a blue bird for one copper coin, and you hand over the money so fast the vendor laughs and gives you an extra piece of candied hawthorn for free.
<!-- Digital Edition: Interactive Map of Bianjing’s City Center. Tap on different buildings to learn more: the Imperial Palace, the East Market, Jinming Pool, and the Bian River Docks. -->
You tuck the kite under your arm and head west toward the Bian River, which cuts right through the middle of the city like a silver ribbon. The docks are busier than the market: big cargo boats from southern China are stacked high with tea, silk, and porcelain, their crews shouting as they haul crates onto the shore. Small fishing boats bob in the water
Small fishing boats bob in the water, their crews hauling up wicker baskets full of silvery fish that flip and splash in the sun. A boy about your age, no older than 10, stands on the bow of one of the small boats, holding up a string of fish he just caught. He grins and waves at you, holding up a small grilled fish on a stick, motioning for you to come closer. You remember you have one copper coin left for the grilled fish, so you walk down to the edge of the dock, balancing your kite under your arm. The boy tosses you the fish, warm and salty, and you hand him your copper coin. He points to a bigger cargo boat tied up at the end of the dock, its hull painted bright blue with a dragon curling along the side. “That boat’s from Lin’an!” he shouts over the noise of the dock. “My dad’s the captain! He says Lin’an is prettier than Bianjing, with a big lake full of lotus flowers and mountains so green they look like jade. They have tea there that smells like grass and flowers, and snack stalls that sell fried squid sweeter than candied hawthorn!” You’ve heard of Lin’an, the southern capital of the Song Empire, but you’ve never been there. It’s a 3-day boat ride down the Grand Canal, the huge man-made waterway that connects the northern and southern parts of the country, and you’ve always wanted to see it. You tuck the rest of your fish into your pocket for later, and wave goodbye to the boy as he runs to help his dad unload crates of silk from the cargo boat.
<!-- Digital Edition: Tap here to watch a 1-minute video of a reconstructed Song Dynasty cargo boat sailing on the Grand Canal, carrying tea and porcelain from the south to Bianjing. -->
After leaving the docks, you walk north for 15 minutes until you reach Jinming Pool, the biggest public park in Bianjing. It’s so big you could fit 20 of your school playgrounds inside it, with willow trees leaning over the water, stone bridges arching over little streams, and pavilions with red pillars and golden roofs where people sit and rest. There are no gates or fences around the park—anyone can come in, whether you’re a noble in fancy silk robes, a farmer in rough hemp clothes, or a kid with a paper kite and a pocket full of coins. That’s